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Hog heaven

A visit to the new Harley-Davidson Museum


 


The story of Harley-Davidson, which would become globally known for its truly American-style motorcycles -- and for an international motorcycle culture those motorcycles would ignite -- is wonderfully displayed in the Harley-Davidson Museum complex that opened in the summer of 2008 on the banks of the Menomonee River and Canal just southwest of downtown Milwaukee.


By Larry Edsall
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Not long after the turn of the 20th Century, William S. Harley, barely beyond his teenage years, began working to design and build an engine that would turn a bicycle into a motorized cycle. In 1903, Harley recruited a friend from his high school days to help him with the project.

The friend, Arthur Davidson, was working as a patternmaker at a boat engine company started by Ole Evenrudstuen, at least that was his family's name back in his native Norway. In the United States, the family and Ole's business would become known by a shortened version of the name - Evinrude.

The Davidson family lived in a Milwaukee home at 38th Street and what is now Highland Boulevard. Behind the home was a 10x15-foot wooden shed. "Harley-Davidson Motor Company" said the sign William Hartley and Arthur Davidson put on the shed where they first put Harley's engine on a bicycle frame.

And the rest, as they say, is history, a wonderfully American story of friends and family -- Davidson's brothers Walter and William soon joined the effort; both had been working for railroads, one as a machinist, the other as a shop foreman. Together, Harley and the Davidsons would build a business that would experience all of the classic American business ups and downs, struggles and successes.

The story of Harley-Davidson, which would become globally known for its truly American-style motorcycles, and for an international motorcycle culture those motorcycles would ignite, is wonderfully displayed in the Harley-Davidson Museum complex that opened in the summer of 2008 on the banks of the Menomonee River and Canal just southwest of downtown Milwaukee.

The museum incorporates three buildings designed in homage to the area's factory and foundry heritage as part of the old industrial hub of Milwaukee. The site formerly was occupied by the Lakeshore Salt and Sand company and later by the Milwaukee Department of Public Works.

The three-building architecture was designed to create a main street/crossroads setting with wide boulevards to park and display motorcycles, just like the annual bike weeks at Daytona Beach, Fla., and Sturgis, South Dakota.

The museum is located in the central of three new buildings. To the west are the Harley-Davidson Archives. As far back as 1915, the company began preserving at least one bike from each model year. Now that collection includes more than 450 Harley-Davidson motorcycles, most of which have been disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and then reassembled, as well as millions of documents and other artifacts.

To the south of the museum is a building that houses a gift shop, a restaurant and a café. But the centerpiece of the project is the museum.

The museum incorporates 130,000 square feet of display space. You enter on the first floor, but you start your tour on the second floor, where the central hallway displays Harley-Davidson motorcycles through the 1940s. On one side of that hallway are rooms that showcase the company's history, from the first motorcycle through World War II.

Above: "Serial Number One." Below left: Arthur Davidson rode a 1097 Model 3 from Milwaukee to New England to recruit dealers. Below right and bottom: Harley-Davidson produced bicycles as well as motorcycles, and in 1920 designed its first motorcycle for the woman rider -- the Sport Model Opposed Twin.

On the other side of the hallway are two rooms: one, a huge cube, displays Harley-Davidson engines and technology (including several hands-on displays); the other, an egg or oval racetrack-shaped room, provides an in-depth look at bike racing and at Harley-Davidson club activities.

Between the Engine Room and the "Clubs and Competition" displays, and from the (fuel) "Tank Wall" display beyond the racing room, the central and end hallways overlook the museum's first floor, where motorcycles from the 1940s through current models are on display along one wall.

Beneath the upstairs hallway and racing room are more Harley historical displays, including special tributes to customized bikes and to motorcycle culture. There's also a ramp from which a replica of Evil Knievel's Wembley jump bike appears to be sailing through the air.

Above left: Harley-Davidson produced the Package Delivery from 1915-1957. Above right: Launched in 1932, the Servi-Car utility vehicle became a mainstay for police departments. Below left: A 1918 Model J with Rogers sidecar. Below right: Like so many companies, Harley tooled up special vehicles for the U.S. military for World War II.

Beneath the engine room is The Design Lab, displays about Harley-Davidson engineering and design, complete with original design drawings and clay models and prototype parts.

Just before the exit is The Experience Gallery, a room that resembles a drive-in theater, except that instead of parked cars there are motorcycles to try as you watch the scenery pass on the screen.

Admission is $16 for adults, $12 for seniors (65-and-older), and $10 for children (ages 5-17).

If you can't get to Milwaukee for a while, you still can get a good look at many of the motorcycles by buying a copy of The Harley-Davidson Motor Co. Archive Collection, a wonderful coffee table book by Randy Leffingwell and Darwin Holmstrom.

Even if you've never ridden a Harley or any other motorcycle, even if you're among those who cringe the low but loud rumble of a Harley engine, the new Harley-Davidson Museum is well worth the admission price.

Above left: The heyday of board-track racing remembered. Above right: The EL Factory Streamliner set a land speed record for two-wheelers in 1937. Below left: The Eight-Valve Racer exceeded 100 mph in 1923. Below right: Display shows "protective" gear worn by pioneering Harley racers.

Below: Elvis' own 1956 KH Side-Valve V-Twin, purchased by the 21-year-old singer on the $50-a-month plan.

 


 

 



 

 

 

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